On the Road to Ole Kentucky!

We left Tucson late on Sunday morning and headed down the road to Old Kentucky. With a three day road trip ahead of us, we paced ourselves, but knocked out the bulk of the trip on the first two days. We got a late staJoe_Sparkysrt from AZ and made our first stop in Hatch NM to have some of Sparky’s World Famous Chili Cheeseburgers. While I stood in a long line to order, Miss Cyd walked Maggie and got her settled down for lunch. We enjoyed an excellent lunch and then hit the road north and east. Stopping in Amarillo at the Residence InMaggie_Snoozingn late that evening, we enjoyed a good night’s rest after a long day. Maggie rested most of the trip in her favored Queen of Sheba position in the back seat with her head stuck in her personal AC vent. Quite the change from her cramped quarters in the back seat of our VW Beetle last year. I must say, although I miss the 45 MPG from the Beetle TDI, our Subaru Outback is a much  better road mobile.

The next day, we headed east through Texas, Oklahoma, and Missouri. We stopped at Maggie’s favorite dog park, just across the Texas-Oklahoma state line. WhilOK_DogParke Maggie and Miss Cyd chased the tennis ball, I caught up on a few emails and other items on my to-do list.  I know, I know, I’m on vacation, but it is hard to go cold-turkey from work and some things need to be dealt with before I get back.  That’s Ok, fortunately, Miss Cyd appreciates the linkage between my work life and how it impacts my vacation life, and indeed, the rest of my life. For me,  since we live in a dynamic state with our electrical entities, I’d rather deal with current issues now, than wait until I get back to the States and deal with them at that time.

After another night in St. Louis, we hit the road for Kentucky to see Matt anFirstStarbucksd Brittney for a couple of days before our flights over to Merrie Olde England. Along the way, we made a few crucial stops at Starbucks for some much-needed caffeine and snacks. Gotta keep those blood sugar levels up for the long drive. As we drove out on the third day, we went through St. Louis and hit it perfectly after rush hour. SaStLouis_Archiling right through the busy urban center and by the arch, we focused on getting to Kentucky in time for dinner.

We arrived in Kentucky on schedule and enjoyed a couple of days to unwind and get ready for our flights across the pond. Miss Cyd and Brittney set up a “special treat” forMatt and I. While I am not a big fan of pedicures, it was pretty nice to sit down and get a good foot and calf massage. Although I protested quite a bit going in, I thought about my son, Willy, and how much he liked to take the girls to go get mani-pedis. I don’t think I’ll ever reach that point, bJoe_Matt_Pedicuresut it was good to be pampered a bit and get a pedicure before all the walking we have ahead of us in Europe. My feet feel GREAT!

After a couple of pleasant days in Kentucky, Cyd and I boarded our flight to ATL from LEX. There is a lot to be said about springing for first class on airplanes. This was a short flight, but it was nice to kick back and relax along the way. We were very fortunate, our original flight from Lexington to Atlanta was experiencing a mechanical delay. After my experiences with Delta scheduling last week on my way back from the NERC ERO Workshop, this  news sent cold chills

Joe_Cyd_LEX-ATLdown my spine as I envisioned being delayed long enough to miss our flight to London from Atlanta. As if he was reading my mind, the gate agent said, “I can rebook you and ensure you make a flight to London on time.” And so he did. We got out of Lexington three hours early and out of Atlanta four hours early on Flight 28. He was able to retain our first class seats to Atlanta and put us in the front row in business class to HeathrJoe_Cyd_ATL_LHRow. This was the first time we have flown Delta Business class to London. I must say, Delta does not provide the decadent experience to which we are accustomed on British Airways, but it got us there early. We are in London now and greatly enjoying our stay at the St. Pancras, which is our favorite hotel in the world. More on our week in London in my next segment, but for now, the road trip to Kentucky and our flights to get across the pond were a great success and we are happy to be in London now.

Happy Traveling,

Joe and Cyd.

Getting Closer!

What I like to remember more than anything else about the middle of Italy is how luxurious it can feel; staying in a villa with friends, all of us painting and sketching, cypresses delineating every hill and with olive groves and little orange churches scattered below them. (Mauduit, 1988, p. 64).

As usual, when we are preparing for a trip to the Continent, we like to immerse ourselves in literature related to where we are going and what we plan to be doing. One of the Mauduit_Architectbooks Miss Cyd found was by Caroline Mauduit. This slim volume contains approximately 100 sketches and watercolors that Mauduit completed during her year abroad at the British School in Rome. It is obvious from the annotations on her work that she was then (and still is) an architect, but the loose and rapid style in which she captured the urban and pastoral scenes around her resonated with me. I plan to apply my Derwent pencils in a similar manner to sketch and attempt to capture the ambiance during our time in Provence and Italy. One of my goals for this trip is to be able to paraphrase Ms. Mauduit and say, “What I remember more than anything about Italy is how nice it was to wander about the Italian countryside with Miss Cyd, sketching, painting, eating, and drinking local wines in the best of bon vivant style!

Speaking of wining and dining, Cyd just finished reading Provence, 1970 (Barr, 2013), which was written by one of M.F.K. Fisher’s grandnephews, and highly recommends it as a great read. This book is adapted from journals and letters  BarrProvence_1970 found at Fisher’s home in California (her palazzo named Last House) after her death. These notebooks and documents captured her conversations and other events in 1970 with Julia Child, James Beard, Simone Beck, and other culinary luminaries of the late 60s-early 70s era who shaped the way we still think of haute cuisine today. Since the events in this book took place in the regions that we plan to visit on day trips from our flat, La Méjanes in Aix-en-Provence, I plan to read it as well on our road trip to Lexington before we depart for Europe. I’m hoping to extract a few pithy quotations to introduce my Provençal blogs in this series.

A few days ago, we were enjoying an excellent dinner at our favorite Italian restaurant (North at La Encantada) in Tucson [if you go, you must try the summer rendition of the roasted salmon with white bean ragu accompanied by a nice Pinot Grigio]. We have chatted with one of the managers there Orvieto_Suggestions_1several times before about our upcoming trip to Italy. Vitopaolo is from Southern Italy, but went to school in Orvieto and met his wife there, when she was studying at the University of Arizona campus in Orvieto. He came back to Tucson with her and adds his considerable charm and expertise to the operation at North. During our most recent visit, he stopped by our table to share some of his favorite restaurants and wine bars in Orvieto. We plan to try them all and I have already scoped them out on-line; they are within a few blocks of our flat, Casa Otello, in the center of Orvieto.

Planning and preparation went into high gear this weekend. I completed all of our reservations for trains throughout our stay on the Continent, with the sole exception of the regional train north from Orvieto back to Florence. I will make that reservation when we get closer to the event, but I have locked in all of our lodging accommodations as well as our first class seats on the high-speed trains we will be taking throughout our travels in France and Italy. I made arrangements this weekend for our trusty driver, Jamil, to pick us up at Heathrow on our arrival and take us to the St. Pancras. Jamil will also pick us up there after our retuSherwood_VSOE_4thEdrn from the Continent to deliver us to the Delta terminal at Heathrow for our flights back to Lexington. A key piece of the transportation puzzle was to complete the booking for our passage on the Orient Express, which I accomplished last week. We are looking forward to that experience. As part of our reading for the trip, I picked up the definitive volume on the Venice Simplon Orient Express [VSOE] (Sherwood, 1998). Dr. Sherwood wrote this book from her vantage point at the beginning of the VSOE enterprise when her husband first became interested in restoring the Orient Express to its former glory. I found the history and the sheer magnitude of the project to be fascinating. I pulled some very nice maps from her book (Ibid, pp. 128, 154) that I will use later on to map our progress when I get to my blog from the Orient Express.

Preparations are moving apace, now we just need to get down to the final packing. Ahh, the packing, the bane of our existence, since we must pack warm clothing for LondonPlatform_9_3-4 and lighter clothing for the South of France and Italy. Fortunately, since we are frequent visitors, the staff at the St. Pancras Renaissance has agreed to let us leave a bag with the concierge while we are gallivanting around the Continent and pick it up on our return from Venice. I cannot speak highly enough of the excellent staff at the St. Pancras, which is our number one hotel in the world. We always stay there when we are in London for the well-appointed rooms, the convivial atmosphere, and high tea in the Chambers Club, as well as its close proximity to the Eurostar at St. Pancras Station and King’s Cross Station (Platform 9 3/4 anyone?), where we can easily access regional trains and the London Tube for our day trips in and around London. Well, enough blogging for one day, those suitcases aren’t going to pack themselves.

Happy traveling,

Joe and Cyd.

References

Barr, L. (2013). Provence, 1970: M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, James Beard, and the Reinvention of American Taste. New York NY: Clarkson Potter.

Mauduit, C. (1988). An Architect in Italy. New York NY: Clarkson N. Potter, Inc.

Sherwood, S. (1996). Venice Simplon Orient-Express: The World’s Most Celebrated Train (4th ed.). London England: Weidenfeld & Nicolson.

Deciding on Art Supplies

Over a month has elapsed since the initial post in this thread. It has been a very busy one, but we have locked in a few more plans and are starting to focus in on what to take, and perhaps more importantly, what not to take. Today, I spent some time going through my art supplies to determine just the right mix to scratch my creative itch on the trip. Those of you who followed our trip to the UK and France in 2015 may remember I way overpacked on that trip and hauled a bunch of canvases back and forth. For this trip, I am going to take a saner approach and plan on picking up canvases as I need them in Aix, Florence, and Venice and shipping the completed paintings back home. If all I needed was a pen and my Field Notes sketchbook, like I used for the sketch above at Saint Sulpice, it would be an easy decision and make packing much simpler. However, life is never that simple and I want to be able to maximize my creative time on this trip, which includes both sketching and painting. What I am interested in taking are my Derwent Inktense pencils and sketching media, a set of acrylic paints, and a paintbox/easel. I’ll definitely be packing my Dolica Proline 60″ Carbon Fiber reversible tripod as it has proven its value many times as a light, compact, and sturdy asset for plein air painting and it will support all three of my options for painting boxes.

Painting Box Selection

I have three choices for this trip. One of my UoP mentees was very gracious and gave me a Sienna Pochade box after she became Dr. Janet Walsh. I love it, so ordered a matching Sienna Supply box for it that clamps onto my tripod. Although I plan to take it on our plein air road trip in September to Monument Valley and on over to NM (Ghost Ranch and Abiqui), it is a bit bulky and relatively heavy for traveling overseas. Thus, I ruled this set out pretty quickly after calculating the weight and mass:

Sienna Pochade and Supply Box
Closed Sienna Pochade Box Open Sienna Pochade Box
Sienna Boxes (Closed) Sienna Boxes (Open)

Next, I considered my trusty Guerrilla Painter French Resistance easel from Judson Arts. Miss Cyd gave this painting box to me quite some time ago and I have packed this box on many a plein air painting trip in the Tour Pak of my 2010 Harley Ultra Classic, as well as our coast-to-coast painting trip in 2012. I have produced several good paintings from it. It has a large carrying capacity in both the box and the lid and can handle canvases up to 16″x20″ with relative ease:

Guerilla Painter French Resistance Easel
guerillapochade_closed guerillapochade_open_1 guerillapochade_open_2
GPFR Easel Closed GPFR Easel Opening GPFR Easel Open

The real issue with this box is packing it for two months on planes and trains and on walking excursions to scenic locations off the beaten paths. As much as I like it, I am leaning toward the Guerrilla Painter ThumBox (also from Judson Art), since it can carry sufficient paint and brushes, and support up to a 9″x12″ canvas with the handy dandy canvas mount I made for it and it is very light and compact:

Guerilla Painter ThumBox
thumbbox_closed thumbbox_open
GP ThumBox Closed GP ThumBox Open

Sketching Materials

As I mentioned above, I am planning to take my Derwent Inktense pencils on this trip, so this was a fairly simple choice. I am taking my 72 pencil set, my daily pencil case that straps onto my Moleskine sketchbook, a couple of small sketch paper blocks, and one spare Stillman & Birn Alpha series sketchbook that Miss Cyd got me at the Artisan Workshop when we were in Santa Fe last fall.

Sketching Materials
 sketching_1  sketching_2
Pencils & Sketchbooks Pencils & Sketchbooks

Choosing the Right Bag(s)

Although I used the Tom Bihn Synapse 25 bag on our 2015 painting trip and found it very useful and convenient, I recently obtained a new Sienna Plein Air backpack that has a very handy feature for strapping the Dolica tripod on the front. Although I know I can pack the ThumBox and the tripod in the Tom Bihn bag, I am torn because I also want to use the backpack as a technology bag during the transit segments of our trip. I also need to be able to carry my MacBook Air and my iPad Pro in the backpack for easy retrieval on planes and trains. I am definitely taking my daily use PacSafe bag, because it is just very good for carrying lots of stuff in a small and (relatively) pickpocket and bag snatcher averse bag. It is large enough to carry my daily use sketch materials, an umbrella, a guide book, a bottle of water, and a host of other handy small items. Don’t leave for Europe without it.

Which Bag(s) to Take?
bags_1 backpacks_1 pacsafe_1
All Three Choices The Two Backpacks The PacSafe is Going!

Final Choice on Art Materials

finalchoice

So, the final decision is to take my sketching materials, with the 72 pencil set (in the brown leather case) to use in the studio (our hotel rooms and our flats in Aix-en-Provence and Orvieto) and to choose daily palettes of pencils to load into my walkabout pencil case, as well as the sketch paper blocks and a spare sketchbook. The ThumBox  and the tripod (shown to the left in their carrying cases) are also on the list.

For our flights, I will pack my acrylic paint tubes separately in my check-in bag in clear ZipLoc bags with a note for TSA that these are non-flammable water-soluble art materials. We did that in 2015 and did not have any trouble getting the paints across the pond in either direction. Once we get to London, I’ll move them back into the ThumBox for later use on location. We will be able to pick up the canvases we need in Aix, Milan, Florence, and Venice, but I’m still torn about which backpack to take.

The Sienna bag is bigger and has the external tripod carrier, but the Tom Bihn bag has proven its value on more than one painting trip (including six weeks in Europe in 2015) and appears to be more durable. Once we start test-packing our clothes and all our gear for the trip next weekend, that should help me decide. The key determinant is what to pack in the check-in bag and what to pack in our carry-on bags. Since the backpack will be one of our carry-on bags, I want to be sure I can get what I need in it for the trip and still be able to get all of our bags on and off a train in one smooth move, especially at connecting stations where we may only have minutes to make the transition from train to platform and back onto another train.

All-in-all, it was a productive day, I know what I want to take to help me scratch that creative itch whenever it appears. With that said, our trip is getting closer and preparation continues apace. Therefore, the mix may change to some degree between now and our departure date, but for now,  the decision on my art materials has been made.

Happy Traveling,

Joe and Cyd

Oh, It’s Happenin’, Sweetheart!

Taking the title of this post from a current (and rather annoying) insurance commercial, despite the best-laid plans, I never feel that a trip abroad is really happening until I start locking in flights and lodging and otherwise start executing the plan. I spestpancrasnt most of a pleasant Saturday this past weekend setting up our flights from Lexington KY to London Heathrow and all of our lodging arrangements in London, Aix-en-Provence, Milan, Orvieto, Florence, Venice, and back to London before we return home to Tucson. This is quite the ambitious itinerary for a two-month trip, but I believe Miss Cyd and I are equal to the task. So, our painting trip to southern France and northern Italy is finally starting to take shape and it is truly happening now, sweetheart!

For those of you who followed our blog when we went to paint in the south of France in the Spring of 2015, my blog of this trip is going to follow a very similar pattern. However, Miss Cyd has decided she will be posting a blog of her own on this trip to showcase some of her art, her journals, and her excellent photography. Once she sets that up, I’ll post a link  to her new blog in an upcoming post.

Where to begin this blog? I suppose a brief discussion of our plan may be in order. As with most of our overseas adventures, we will begin this one with a three-day road trip from Arizona to Kentucky to deliver our faithful Golden Doodle (Maggie, who LOVES road trips) to Matt and Brittney, who will keep her with them during our trip. We will spend a couple of days in Lexington before we board our flights to London Heathrow, via Atlanta. We are flying Delta on this trip instead of British Airways, since the Delta Business class was jamil_joemuch less expensive than the British Airways tickets. Once we arrive in London, our driver, Jamil, will pick us up and take us to our favorite hotel in London, the St. Pancras Renaissance. We will spend a few days in London visting art galleries, museums, and generally getting acclimated to the European time zones before boarding the Eurostar direct from the St. Pancras Station to Marseilles Saint Charles. From Marseille, we will make our way to Aix-en-Provence where our kind hosts from our visit in 2015, Jean-Philippe and Elise, will help us settle into our favorite flat, La Méjanes, for ten days. While we are in Aix, we will make some day trips to the Matisse Chapel, Chateau La Coste, Carrières de Lumières, and other areas of interest in the south of France. We also plan to return to the Bibémus Quarries and do some more painting from the La Terrain des Peintres. Those of you who followed our 2015 painting trip may recall my painting of Mont Sainte Victoire from this location (see my blog post Channeling Cézanne, Part Deux) . I plan to pick ucydlovesaixp a larger panel at the art store in Aix and redo that effort during this stay. All-in-all, we do love Aix and look forward to our return.

After Aix, we’ll head back to Marseille Saint Charles to catch the TrenItalia to Milan. We will be staying in the Boscolo Milano in the old quarter of Milan and will be playing tourista at the art galleries and museums for a couple of days. After that stop, we will take a regional train to Orvieto to stay in a charming flat (Casa Otello) on top of the hill near the Cathedral. We are going to take some day trips from there to Cortona to visit one of Miss Cyd’s friends and go out to Tenuta Le Velette to paint Orvieto from the vantage point of the grounds behind the winery and to have a nice lunch with some of their superior wine. If you view the link above, the cathedral near our flat is the highest point you can see on top of the hill across the valley from the winery. Miss Cyd took some excellent rainy day photos of that view tenutaleveletteon our Fall 2013 trip to Italy. Although you can’t see Orvieto in this particular picture, I plan to paint the hilltop town with my easel set up near the back fence, but strategically close to a nice bottle of Traluce Umbria Sauvignon and a good cheese tray from the kitchen at Tenuta Le Velette.

We will be going back on the urban trail for our next two stops after Orvieto. We’ll be taking the regional train back up to Florence and staying at the AC Hotel Firenze. Our plan here is to go to the Uffizi and the Galileo Museums, visit some of the cathedrals and the Babtistry, do some painting along the river, go up the hill to San Miniato al Monte to listen to the Gregorian Chants, and definitely have at least one Beefsteak Florentine. If we can get in on short notice, we would also like to take another cooking class at InTavola. We so enjoyed that whole experience, including dining on the results of our cooking in the wine cellar with our new friends when we took the cooking class in 2013.

Leaving Florence, it’s on to Venice via the TrenItalia to Venezia Santa Lucia and to  our favorite Venetian hotel, the Hotel Mercurio, via vaporetto or water taxi. As a special treat for Miss Cyd, I was able to book one of the two suites with a canal view. This hotel is centrally located to the Piazza San Marco, the Accademia, the Rialto, and near a vaparetto stop where we can catch the boats to Murano and La Guidecca. We are fortunate enough to hit Venice just in time for the Biennale 2017, so we will spend at least part of a day wandering around taking in the art exhibitions. I also want to do a painting of the Rialto on this trip. Since our hotel is also right around the corner from La Fenice, we would like to take in an opera. Verdi’s La Traviata is playing the night before we leave for London, but I’m a bit bummed that it is sold out. Miss Cyd says maybe we can buy tickets the day of the performance, but if not we can at least take a tour of La Fenice during the week we are in Venice.

orientexpressrouteAs we prepare to depart Venice, the train ride of a lifetime awaits us. I have booked a twin cabin for us on the Orient Express from Venice to London. This two-day trip will take us through the Italian Dolomites, the Swiss Alps, Austria, southern Germany, and France before we cross the Channel back to the UK. We have wanted to ride the Orient Express for so long and now it’s really going to happen, sweetheart (to carry the theme of this blog out to its logical conclusion). We may need to get pocket watches and channel my best Hercule
Poirot, while Miss Cyd portrays Dame Agatha Christie. When we return to London, we will stay a few more days at the St. Pancras to unwind and enjoy a couple of days of high tea in the Chambers Club to gather our thoughts and relax, prior to a leisurely drive to Heathrow with Jamil to take the hop back across the pond to Atlanta and then on to Lexington.

Loading up with our faithful Doodle after another short visit with Matt and Brittney, we will make the three-day road trip back to Tucson and to our busy professional lives with a smaller balancmaggiee in the old bank account, a few new pieces of plein air art, and some very cherished memories. As a longtime project manager, I always like to have a good plan and this is the plan for our upcoming painting trip to Europe. Of course, any good plan must reserve some time and resources for unforeseen contingencies, so we have left plenty of room in our two-month sojourn to incorporate those spontaneous decisions and serendipitous moments that leave  such valuable and indelible marks on our memories. Thus, now it remains merely to execute the plan and truly make it all happen, sweetheart! Stay tuned for more details along the way as our trip unfolds this Spring. We hope you enjoy our blogs as we make our way from the States to the UK, down to the South of France and Italy, and return.

Onward and upward from the intrepid travelers,

Joe and Cyd!